Throughout the years when we visited Targu Mures we tried repeatedly to visit the history museum. But it was always closed or not even clear where it was located. This time we learned that it was moved to the middle of the fortress and in addition it seems to have a website and regular open hours. And to my surprise it is really open in the morning and in I go. Unfortunately for the museum I am the only visitor for the day which makes it special for me of course. They even have an automated entrance kiosk but the person at the desk helps me get the ticket and then shows me around so she can ensure I don’t miss anything.
The starting point is the temporary exhibit related to rituals between life and death. It is a surprisingly interesting exhibit and it follows different burial rituals in the area throughout the years.
There are some reconstructions of graves including of human and animals showing how the burials were arranged especially for rich chieftains.
And then there are exhibits for medieval medical procedures and diseases starting with the most scary medical procedure of them all, trepanation. Where they cut a hole in the skull for ceremonial purposes or to relieve the pressure on the brain.
Another interesting part of the exhibit is related to some new excavations done in a cave where quite a few objects were found. Between them lots of skeletons but also some axeheads and other interesting items.
Then there are the exhibits related to the diseases from syphilis to tuberculosis and showing how they impact the bones and how archaeologists can, based on those determine how many people were impacted and even when some diseases were introduced to Europe. And then there are also the many skeletons with weapon strikes on their skulls from the many battlefields in the area, quite interesting.
With the temporary exhibit on the ground floor at an end it is now time to climb to the first floor where the permanent exhibit is located. This exhibit is focused on the history of Targu Mures showing info about the town and how the people lived, the rich ones especially. There is a whole exhibit dedicated to a feast a Translyvania guild member did to honor his entrance into the guild which was worth a whole year of his future wages.
Another shows the history of the fortress, how initially the citizens stayed inside protected by the walls but after revolting against the Austrians and after they conquered the fortress all has changed. They moved all the citizens outside and created a garrison in the fortress to keep an eye on the restive population.
Then there is a section about the justice system and how the different types of crimes were solved including crimes of honor and sexual offences.
There is also an interesting section about witchcraft and how many people were burned at stake, especiall women of course.
Then the exhibit returns at the theme of feasts with a set table for noblemen with some nice silverware and “gold”ware. No food though unfortunately.
And then there is one more exhibit section, quite an interesting one about how the museum permanent exhibition has changed throughout the years. First the museum in the 1800s was focused on local industry and tried to highlight the products for sale to visitors.
Then the next iteration was related to historical finds through the county with visiting scholars writing articles about what was found here throughout the ages.
A whole room is then dedicated to a Roman settlement in Cristesti and the finds from that area, surprising to me as I was not aware of this site.
The most special find here is the military diploma for a Roman soldier, something that was offered when they were exiting the army and received Roman citizenship. It was then used as proof by both the original person and all descendents that they are Roman citizens.
Then is the next iteration of the museum, focused on art until the end of the Second World War when the communists took over.
The communists of course changed the topics completely, now everything is focused on class warfare. How every class wants to fight against all the others and oppress the worker class.
And then how it decayed even further towards the end of the communist period when all the Ceausescu dictator wanted was to pay the external debt even at the cost of impoverishing the whole country in the process.
And then there is one more section that shows that while the people struggled the communist elites was eating quite well at their banquets, not surprising and something that was well known and one of the reasons for the revolt in 1989. But then I notice that two hours have passed inside so it is time to exit and prepare to meet with my relatives with whom I will spend the rest of the day celebrating one and remembering a couple others.
