If there is one thing we will remember about Serengeti for a long time is the rain. Maybe it is an exaggeration but maybe not given that it rained every night and also during the day many times. And so it is as we approach our accomodation for the night, Osero Tented Lodge, that the clouds are darkening on the horizon, almost like clockwork. However when we park it is still sunny as the lodge stuff comes to help us unload and then provides us the lodge info and some cool drinks.
The cabin is probably the least luxurious that we stayed in in the National Parks of Tanzania but as a counter point it is by far the cheapest. Especially compared to other accomodations in the area it is by a couple orders of magnitude cheaper. And it is not that bad really. We still have a large bed, even though on uneven ground and with no good lighting. And we have ensuite facilities even though the toilet barely works even after multiple repairs until one of us finally makes the final repair. And for hot water you have to request and they basically fill in a basin with hot water that you can use for shower. So it is an adventure no matter how you look at it.
This is one of the only places on our trip where dinner is buffet style. Which actually isn’t that bad as we can choose what we want. And they provide water for free something that a much higher end previous lodge refused to do.
The food is really good actually and we enjoy it before retreating to our tent for the night. However before going to sleep we set up our camera outside. This is because the camp staff talks about lions and other animals walking here at night so we want to validate that. Throughout the night there are noises and bumps in the tent, besides the rain, so this is one place we would not have exited at night. But in the morning we check the camera and we learn what passed by us, a leopard, ok, that is scary.
In the morning we can walk outside again and we do just that, to the dining tent. On the way we look for something interesting but there is little activity this morning so on to the breakfast tent we go.
The food is quite good as the dinner the previous night and then we ask for lunch boxes and are ready to go.
But before leaving we notice that the bird activity has picked up and we watch hornbills in the trees and starlings on the ground for a while before finally moving on.
In the afternoon we return, happily that we were able to make it over flooded rivers. It is not raining here but it seems it is the only place where it is not raining as we watch the giraffes in front of our tent and a beautiful Gray-breasted Spurfowl climbing on a tree.
As the weather seems to hold we go to the main tent and ask for the walking safari that is included in our package. This is a short walk to the top of a nearby hill. And why shouldn’t we do it, well except the fact that leopards and lions seem to prowl the area?
Well, maybe because we can add one more apex predator to the list, we find a hyena in the savanna watching us. Not attacking, which is good, but not moving away, which is bad, right? In the end we escape the hyena, enjoy the views and the hike and return after an adventurous hike to the camp for dinner.
Today there are more guests than the previous night but the food is still good and plentiful and we are full when we reach the tent. We close it very carefully, ensure we are as prepared as possible for a leopard or lion or hyena intrusion and then go to sleep. Which is peaceful with no predators in sight.
In the morning it is time to leave from this camp in the middle of the wilderness, after breakfast of course. We pack as much as we can first and then go to breakfast at the usual time, today is actually a beautiful day with no significant clouds.
Food is good and then after seeing our first Rüppell’s starling, right outside the tent it is time to move our luggage to the car. With the help of the staff of course. And then top up, motor on, and it is time to return back through Serengeti to Ngorongoro after two eventful but great nights here.
