Arriving at Naabi Hill around 2PM we are struck by how busy this small outlet of civilization in the savanna is. Everything is bustling and hustling, likely because this is one of the only stops on the road, everyone has to stop here and as we will learn getting all the necessary permits is a hassle. There are two sides to it, you have to exit Ngorongoro and get x stamps and then pay and enter Serengeti and get y stamps. No steps are published or shown or even which door is which park. We enter and ask and go around the building and ask and so on. In the end we think we did everything right and it is time to relax and explore the area.
One thing that we know from our research but most other people visiting are not aware is that there is a hiking trail going up the hill that you can follow for some nice views and just to stretch your legs. There are zero signs pointing to it but the path is there so up we go exploring the hillside.
Besides us only one other couple is taking this path and it is so surprising to be almost alone compared to the cacophony at the bottom of the hill. There are also some beautiful lizards here, purple colored Mwanza Rock Agama on every rock, and of course some dassies looking annoyed from under the rocks.
But the major attraction is the view from the viewpoint. We are quite high compared to the camp below and we can see far into the savanna in all directions, beautiful.
Supposedly you can also see cheetah sometimes but no luck today. What we see and gives us pause is that on the road into Serengeti there is flooding, it seems the cars are passing but who knows if we can. At the same point the migration also seems to cross the road, that is something we really want to see of course.
The trail is actually a loop but we almost miss the descent path as it is after some rocks with no signs. However after picking it up it is an easy descent towards the other end of the gate area.
Here we discover the best souvenir shop of our trip. All souvenirs are reasonably priced, a rarity, and there is a great selection. We make some selections but decide to buy only when returning, just in case.
The picnic area is still full so we do some light birding and then it is time for the main event the actual crossing from Ngorongoro to Serengeti. And of course our papers are not in order, there is one missing stamp that we were supposed to get from a missing person. In short when we got to that post there was a ledger to enter your name and we did that but supposedly there should have been a man also to stamp our paper, how could we have known? At least the gate guard goes himself to get the stamp and after a bit more waiting we finally passed through the gate, phew.
To celebrate we decide to eat the lunch boxes from Lions Paw, which we hope are worthy of the luxury lodge name. And they are not. While it looks nice the sandwich is just bread with onion between them, which is not great for two people who hate onions. Usually we take the onions out but here we are left only with bread?!? So we eat from our provisions and then it is time to explore Serengeti.
Immediately after the gate we are thrust into the migration. it is a beautiful and bewildering spectacle of wildebeest and zebras running, walking and just existing all around us. With vultures and predators always nearby watching and waiting.
We reach the flooded areas and they are not bad today, we can follow the other cars to pick the best route while keeping an eye out for photo opportunities.
And there are lots of opportunities with so many animals all around us. This is where the migration is now and we are happy we were able to catch this beautiful spectacle of nature. The herds of herbivores move around actually from the north of Serengeti and Kenya in September to south of Serengeti and Ndutu in February for calving following the rains. And we are at the right spot here in February for both the rains and the migration, great planning :).
We cross the large migration for herd for a few exciting kilometers and then it ends and suddenly we are at normal levels of animal density. Which is a lot versus almost anywhere else but disappointing after the huge numbers prior.
We are quite excited however to pass some kopjes, rock outcroppings, along the way. This is because they are likely places for lions sitting on top and looking for prey on the savanna. But no luck today, only some baboons are sitting on top.
Even the promising named Simba Kopje has no lions today, as far as we can see after lots of scanning so on we go towards our lodge in the middle of Serengeti.
We then cross one of the many rivers but this one is a special one as we can see hippos in a pool not that far away. We enjoy them but with bad weather coming, it is time to speed up so we can arrive to our lodge before rain.
The clouds are quite dark as we approach our lodge and we don’t even know if we will be able to find the entrance to it as there is no sign on the map on where it is. At least the area is full of giraffes and we enjoy watching them as we look for the entrance.
And then we find a side road in the expected area and after looking carefully we find the name of our lodge, we found it! Now we take the iffy road to the lodge following the sign for guests while enjoying the interesting birds on the way, African Cuckoo is common here and we also find a lifer, a Black-crowned Tchagra. And then we are at the lodge where we will spend two nights avoiding being mauled by leopards ;).
