We wanted to visit the Neelkanth Temple complex while in the area and initially were depending on our driver to take us to it. However our driver doesn’t seem so enthused so when we see that during the birdwatching trip we pass right next to the temple complex we ask the guides to stop. They are quite happy to do that and we get an impromptu tour of the location. They explain to us that there are tens of temples here but most of them were destroyed with only one surviving, the one where the parking is and from where we start.
We take our shoes off and then together with one of our guides enter the surviving temple. It is not a large one but at least the people around it are not aggresive towards us, maybe because we have a guide with us.
We really like the decorations and the different panels showing scenes from Indian mythology and others being more… risque.
The interior temple is quite interesting, it is the first time we see how it looks like, in this case there are snakes around what we assume is the altar, quite fun.
Then, still barefoot, we walk around the temple, it is quite beautifully restored looking like we would expect a classical temple in India to look like. And we really enjoy the fact that we can explore it without the extra attention. They are quite old with many of them being built between the 7th and 10th century.
There are some beautiful carvings on the outside continuing the themes seen inside. We also find an ever burning log, our guide tells us that it can never be extinguished as long as the temple stands.
Next it is time to explore the area with a milling station and a stepwell right next to the surviving temple. Then we continue on towards the other temples, which are in much worse shape.
The second temple is relatively close and it looks like a Greco-Roman temple ruin in Europe with a few surviving pillars in the middle of the outlines of the temple buildings. Of course if you get close you notice that the pillars have Indian carvings and that the shrine is similar to the one in the surviving temple, made of black stone. All the temples here, except the surviving one, were destroyed by the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb and his army while trying to quell a rebellion in the area and to expand Muslim influence.
We talk with the guide and he is amenable to us continuing to the next temple which is visible in the distance. In fact we have no idea but we can walk from temple to temple seemingly forever. In this case we first continue on a well maintained path before walking on the walls towards the next temple we see in the distance.
It is another interesting temple different from the previous ones. Here the centerpiece is a huge statue, possibly of Shiva as the whole complex was dedicated to him. It has been vandalized partially but it is still looking impressive and we take a few photos with our guides help next to it just for a size comparison.
There are other interesting details like the beautiful and delicate elephant carvings and we explore it for a while before deciding to go to one more temple. The guide is very open to it, we really enjoy his readiness which is quite different from our driver who seems mostly to push against all our ideas.
The next temple is the last temple as we still have to return to our accomodation and then explore one more fortress further afield. It is again a little different and we enjoy exploring it before starting on our return walk.
The return walk is uneventful as we watch birds and enjoy the great weather and then it is time to board the jeep for the return trip to our accomodation.
