When we decided to go to Newfoundland there was one non-negotiable, we have to make it to L’Anse aux Meadows, the first known European settlement in North America. This is because of its mystique even when we were young we were fascinated with it and with the sagas describing the tribulations the Viking settlers and explorers faced.
And we face a few also, even though not as many as them of certain. First it is raining almost the whole way, not a bit but torrentially with the roads being transformed in rivers that few cars brave. And second the distance, it is about a four hour drive to get there, we couldn’t find an itinerary that worked better. But we persevere and are rewarded with the signs of Vinland as we approach the historical site.
It is cold when we get there but at least it is not raining so we make our way as soon as we can to the visitor center so we can visit before the rains can get here. There are quite a few cars in the parking lot, we are not the only people that have heard of the site for certain. There is a short walk to the visitor center and it is full of statues and artwork representing Vikings in different situations.
The visitor center is unassuming from this side but we get really perturbed by the two people watching us unblinkingly through the entrance door. Oops they are statues but come on, they should have been placed a bit more inside.
With our hearts back to normal we start exploring the visitor, after paying the entrance fee of course. There are quite a few interesting exhibits about the Viking expeditions that led to the European discovery of North America. At least they didn’t lie like with Greenland, Helluland is a great name for Labrador.
It was a relatively large settlement even though it survived only a couple of decades around the year 1000 and it is assumed that it served as a base for exploring the surrounding area. It is impossible to know how many people lived here but the houses could accomodate 30-160 people.
On the way they encountered native people that they gave, in the sagas, the all-encompassing name of Skraeling which very likely was derogatory. What we find interesting is how much of the discovery of North America was described in the Norse sagas with the obligatory embellishments.
After finishing with the small but informative museum we exit through the backdoor and are rejoicing, it still isn’t raining. We enjoy the views for a while but then it is time to move to not freeze to death.
First we need to descend to the plateau and then it is a flat trail towards the settlement.
On the way we pass the Meeting of Two Worlds sculpture, an interesting one but little information about it. It is an unexpected long walk to the site, we are wondering why they didn’t set the visitor center closer given the area penchant for rain, snow and cold.
And then with almost no warning we reach the archaeological site. There is less left than we expected, just a few depressions, this is because the houses were not built of stones but of sod over wood frames that decomposed over the years.
It is a bit of a let down even though we are still happy that we were able to see this very important historical site and we can imagine how the houses were sitting here grouped together…
…but we do not have to imagine, really. Probably because other people were even more disappointed at how little remained the government recreated the site right next to the actual site. In this case we are quite happy that they did that, we can see how the houses looked and get an idea how the Vikings lived.
You can enter the buildings and there are volunteers inside explaining how the Vikings lived. And there are fires inside, actual fires so it is warm but we are surprised that they never set the building on fire.
You can also play around with swords and shields if you are male or cook and spin the yarn if you are female, very period appropriate.
We explore a bit the small village, it must have been quite impressive compared to the smaller native settlements though there is no proof or sign that the natives ever saw the Viking settlement.
Next we explore the only major trail in the park, the Birchy Nuddick Trail. Even though it is relatively short we are not sure that we can finish it before the park closes so we decide to go a short distance find a few caches and birds and then return.
We do find the caches and even a couple fox sparrow and as the rain seemingly decides to start again we retreat to the car. We have two more possible stops today so if the rain is not bad we plan to stop on our return trip.
But first a quick stop still in the area to admire the Leif Erikson statue. There is no one else around and all gift shops and stores are closed so we take photos and then we hurry back to the car and then southwards to the next attraction that we want to visit.
