We arrive around 2PM at El Morro which is quite late if you want to hike the trails. In fact the Headlands Trail we wanted to hike is already closed so we have to do the Inscription Loop that we have done decades ago. At least we receive a pamphlet that might be quite useful when looking at the inscriptions and then we are on the way.
The trail takes us on a relatively direct route to the cliffside where most of the inscriptions are. The trail is paved and passes through the famous cryptobiotic soil that so many pamphlets tell us to avoid.
There is a good reason for the abundance of inscriptions at El Morro and from so many nations. At the base of the cliffs below a usually dry waterfall is a permanent pond of water. This is a rarity in the parched desert, a veritable oasis, attracting all passing travellers.
One of the first panels we see is a Native American petroglyph panel. It is quite a busy panel and we admire it for a while before continuing on.
The majority of the inscriptions/petroglyphs however are more recent, they are either Spanish or American after the USA conquered the area in 1848.
Most American and Spanish inscriptions are in some really nicely carved letters, the writing seems to have been planned carefully.
One of the things we learn is that the earliest rangers tried to protect the inscriptions with some quite invasive methods. For example they tried to retrace them with graphite pencils which actually supposedly led to them deteriorate even faster since then. They also brutally carved out the newer inscriptions at the time which likely now would be considered historic also…
The pamphlet itself is one of the better ones with good descriptions of each inscription and who the people were that made them, if known.
Too sad the cliff is finished and it is time to return back to the visitor center to return the pamphlet and take a look at the small museum.
At the beginning is a panel pointing correct ways to address different controversial issues. With some we agree wholeheartedly but some feel a bit forced to us. Either way it is what it is.
The exhibits are interesting showing the extend of the pueblos, the wars with Spain/Mexico and then the USA. It also has a fun exhibit about the Beale expedition which tried to convince the military and settlers to use camels in the Southwestern desert. It didn’t work out but it is an interesting tidbit of history. And then it is time to return to the interstate via Grant and then continue to Casamero Pueblo the last stop for today.
