Old Kourion City

The Kourion Archaeological Site is relatively close to the museum but it sits on the British base. Entering it takes some time as there is no hurry at the gate but finally we make it in and then have to drive quite a distance up to the visitor center. Here we get a big surprise, our clocks are showing the time as being two hours earlier than we thought, it takes a bit to realize we are on UK time here.

The visitor center is impressive from outside but is only self service with some good maps and info to be taken on the trails. There is also a soft drinks machine which we use to get some cold coffee and a local soft drink before walking directly to the first major attraction, the House of Eustolius.

House of Eustolius was built initially during the early Roman period and then expanded during the 5th century and is looking like a typical, huge, Roman villa, completely protected from the elements by a huge roof.

What does the roof protect? Some of the best mosaics that we have seen. But first we are distracted by a group of laughing doves chasing each other until one finally is able to conquer the area.

And then it is time to see the main mosaic floor which is really well preserved. it has some beautiful representation of wildlife and is famous for the two inscriptions showing connection to both paganism and Christianity.

Next is the Theater built towards the end of the second century BC, then rebuilt repeatedly after earthquakes and had a circular orchestra. Now it is semicircular but it is still impressive.

Interesting there is a spot in the middle of the theater where due to the acoustics you can be heard throughout the theater even if speaking at normal volume, it is quite a special place to be in.

Next it is time to start on the trails that go to the other points of attraction on the archaeological site. And this is when we get an idea of how large an area is covered by the site, we are happy that we have cold water and the drinks from the visitor center with us.

At least there are some birds along the way, the usual Sardinian Warblers and our first magpie on the island.

The first stop on our extended tour of the site is the Earthquake house. Here the visit to the museum previously is really helping us envision how the house looked like prior to the large earthquake in 365AD that destroyed it and killed most of the inhabitants.

What we recognize for certain are the stables where the girl was killed while trying to save the horse. Surprisingly we also find window frames, guess there was window glass even then?

After another relatively long walk we return to the area that is extensively excavated. We enter from the ocean side into the ruins of the Early Christian basilica from the 5th century which was quite impressive especially when we can see it from above from an overlook point.

The basilica was decorated with mural mosaics, mosaic floors and marble sculptures but little of that remains. There are areas which seem to be prepared with sand to set mosaics, maybe, in the future. In an area there are a few mosaic remains but nothing as impressive as in the House of Eustolius.

Next are the Agora, the public area, and the Stoa, the market area, which are next to each other. It is surprising that you can walk on the old stones and get a good feeling of the size of the old town.

The biggest attraction in the Stoa is a colonnade of 16 marble columns that can be seen today from which 6 were found in the original position. The Stoa was built towards the end of the 2nd century and was destroyed in the mid 4th century.

Next is the Nymphaeum which is anchored by a former temple which again is interesting that you can explore on foot. Only the mosaics are off limit which makes sense of course. As we walk in the Nymphaneum we really enjoy the flowers, they give a beautiful contrast to the countryside.

The complex is quite large with many baths and other installations related to irrigation around the city. It was built in the 1st centruy AD and then destroyed during the Arab raids of the 7th century.

One of the sites we really find mesmerizing is a temple/building complex near the shoreline. It has some great views of the shore and we spend some time just enjoying the views before returning to the central site.

Now it is time to move to the more outlying sites, the House of Gladiators and House of Achilles. Both are famous for their mosaics and we really wanted to see them.

The Gladiator House is famous for its…gladiator mosaics of course, and they are quite interesting. Relatively next to it is the House of Achilles, the last house on our tour of the site. It has a few preserved mosaics with pagan themes including some about Achilles…of course. And then it is time to return to the parking lot and continue east as we still have a couple stops along the way.

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