Kencho-ji is relatively close to Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu so we walk to it which is good as the parking places in front of it are limited. We are surprised at how much more quieter the area is with only a few tourists actually visiting it even though it is the most important of Kamakura Zen temples and one of the five main Zen temples in Japan. Of course it is also paid entrance which might be the reason for it being less popular.
After entering through the main gate we walk through the gardens till we arrive at Butsu-den the Buddha Hall – an ancient building moved from Tokyo in 1647.
The interior gate San-mon has an interesting history as legend says that a raccoon dog transformed himself in a monk to collect donations for the building of the gate.
There are interesting sights almost everywhere including one of the oldest bells in Japan from 1255.
The gate itself is completely wooden and we spend some time just looking at the details and how the structure was built and still cannot decide if it has nails or not.
Whenever we can we also enter a few buildings including the old Butsu-den which has some beautiful carvings on the left and right side of the shrine.
Next is the newer Hatto building which has a beautiful dragon painting on the ceiling. Lots of artwork and toil went into creating these shrines so we try to be as respectful as possible while visiting, and hopefully we succeeded.
We can also enter the main building (after taking our shoes off of course) and here it looks like a functional temple with people meditating and some just arriving it seems for a prayer or meditation session. Behind the main building is the oldest surviving Zen garden in Japan which looks really peaceful even though it is a bit smaller than expected.
One of the more impressive sights in the complex is the Kara-mon gate which was built in Chinese style and is really beautiful.
It was brought together with Butsu-den from Zojo-ji in Tokyo and it looks like it was just built. We examine the detailed filigree made with gold and then move on.
In the back of the main temple area starts a trail that connects it to other temples. We decide to walk a bit on it and then choose a return time to ensure that we get to Tokyo on time.
The path is quiet with no other people as it passes near houses and then continues through the temple garden.
It continues to be interesting as it passes through torii’s and near monuments, cemeteries, gardens and even a small tunnel.
There are small memorial garden and stone markers strewn near the trail and some we understand what they are and some not but we are the only people here which makes it for a beautiful last walk outside Tokyo.
We continue exploring the area a bit more however when the trail starts climbing towards another temple we decide to turn around, it is a nice place and we would have loved to continue but there isn’t enough time.
After exiting the temple and while returning to the car on the main street we admire the “tunnel” on the way which has an open ceiling through which the plants are starting to invade the interior.
And then we have to leave Kamakura but almost immediately we arrive at a barrier free train crossing which has the lights on. We wait in line with the other cars however a motorcycle decides to pass everyone and cross – bad ides as there is a police car further up expecting exactly this kind of behavior. This is the first (and last) time that we see any traffic police in Japan. Finally we arrive at the highway and with it pass Nagoya and then enter Tokyo.
We have decided to return the car at Haneda airport and not at Narita which is further out from Tokyo and it would have meant that we have to cross the whole metropolitan area. We are sure that it won’t be a problem to find the rental place but we are wrong – this was the worst signed return car rental location that we have seen. There are no signs throughout the airport (at least that we can read) so in the end we stop at a gas station to ask for directions. Unfortunately they don’t speak English well but they point in a direction which we follow however we get further and futher out from the airport and then enter the city. Just when we decide to return we notice the Hertz sign – phew – we were really getting worried.
After returning the car we take the rental shuttle to the airport from which we take the train to downtown Tokyo where we will stay the next days. Our bad luck continues as we exit one station too early but the walk in the evening on the streets is nice and we find the hotel easy. The hotel is clean and safe but the room is probably the smallest that we have been in – no problem for us as we do not intend to stay a lot in it. We are really tired however we first have to exit a bit to find a supermarket to buy some provisions and then eat dinner and go to sleep.
